투명 겔 시트 개발 및 난용성 물질 가용화 기술에 대한 연구
Development of transparent gel sheet and study for stabilization of water-insoluble functional substances
- 주제(키워드) tamarindus indica seed gum (TG) , capryloyl salicylic acid , lipo hydroxy acid
- 주제(DDC) 660.6
- 발행기관 아주대학교
- 지도교수 빈범호
- 발행년도 2023
- 학위수여년월 2023. 2
- 학위명 박사
- 학과 및 전공 일반대학원 응용생명공학과
- 실제URI http://www.dcollection.net/handler/ajou/000000032427
- 본문언어 한국어
- 저작권 아주대학교 논문은 저작권에 의해 보호받습니다.
초록/요약
Part I. 타마린드씨검과 에탄올, 폴리올 및 산 · 염기 반응의 물성 연구를 바탕으로 스킨케어 제품 군 중 마스크 팩은 손쉽게 구매할 수 있으며, 간편한 사용법으로 선호된다. 세안 후 바로 사용할 수 있다는 장점과 하나의 제품으로도 풍부한 보습력을 느낄 수 있으며, 비교적 저렴한 단가로 진입 장벽이 낮아 많은 화장품 제조업체에서 생산되고 있다. 본 연구에서는 타마린드씨검(Tamarindus indica seed gum, TG)과 에탄올, 폴리올을 포함한 알코올의 반응성 및 산・염기 반응을 기반으로 하여 제조 시 별도의 지지체가 없는 것을 특징으로 하는 새로운 겔 시트 마스크 개발 연구로 타마린드씨 검의 특성을 바탕으로 하였다. TG와 알코올 류를 일정 혼합 비율로 혼합하면 각 성분과의 반응으로 투명 내지 불투명한 점액상 내지 겔을 형성한다. 화장품에 많이 사용되는 용매인 에탄올, 부틸렌 글라이콜, 글리세린, 솔비톨, 다이프로필렌 글라이콜, 프로판 다이올을 검토하였고 솔비톨, 글리세린, 프로판다이올, 부틸렌글라이콜, 에틸 알코올, 다이프로필렌글라이콜 순서로 TG가 다량의 에탄올 및 폴리올을 안정하게 겔화 할 수 있다. 빠르게 겔화되는 특성이 있기 때문에 1·2제로 나눠서 제형을 구성을 해야 했는데, 혼합의 재미와 피부 밝기 능력을 부여하기 위해 산・염기 반응을 도입하는 방향으로 설계하였다. 산으로는 락틱 애씨드, 글라이콜릭 애씨드, 시트릭 애씨드를 선정하여 염으로는 소듐 바이 카보네이트를 선정하여 원료별 함량 실험을 진행하였고, 이를 이용하여 지지체가 필요 없는 투명한 겔 시트 팩을 제조 할 수 있었다. 효능을 확인하기 위해 분광 측색계와 수분 측정 기기를 이용하여 피부 밝기 및 사용 직 후 보습 능력 평가를 진행하였고 피부 밝기 개선 및 뛰어난 보습 능력이 있음을 확인되었다. 해당 연구를 통해 TG와 알코올의 수소 결합을 기반으로 한 겔화 반응을 바탕으로 여러 제형으로의 개발이 가능할 것으로 생각되며, 그동안 하이드로겔에 적용되는 검류의 한계로 일률적인 사이즈 및 타공에 의한 손실 등 여러 가지 비용적, 기술적인 문제를 본 연구를 통해 새로운 방향을 제시를 할 수 있을 것으로 예상된다.
more초록/요약
Part II. 살리실릭애씨드 및 카프릴로일살리실릭애씨드가 적용된 투명 클렌징 워터의 개발 최근 중국발 미세먼지의 유입 증가, 코로나-19로 인한 마스크 착용으로 피부 민감도 증가 등으로 피부 이상에 대한 소비자 니즈가 증가하였다. 이러한 문제 해결을 위해 필링(peeling) 제품을 사용한다. 필링 제품 중 씨앗 가루 및 곡류의 껍질 등 천연 성분 파우더와 폴리 에칠렌 등 미세 플라스틱 입자를 피부 표면에 문지름으로써 각질을 제거하는 방법인 물리적 필링과 효소를 이용한 생물학적 필링, alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), poly hydroxy acid (PHA) 또는 lipo hydroxy acid (LHA)를 이용한 화학적 필링으로 나뉜다. 피부 고민 및 자극 여부에 따라 적절히 선택되어진다. 본 연구는 화학적 필링 중 BHA인 살리실릭애씨드(salicylic acid)와 LHA인 카프릴로일살리실릭애씨드(capryloyl salicylic acid)가 용해된 투명 외관의 클렌징 워터 제품 개발에 관한 연구이다. 상기 두 원료는 지용성 성질을 가지기 때문에 용해도 문제로 투명한 외관 제형 적용에는 한계가 있어 왔다. 이에 대한 해결책으로 에탄올, 폴리올을 포함한 알코올 및 강 염기성인 소듐 하이드록사이드를 이용하여 살리실릭애씨드와 카프릴로일살리실릭애씨드의 용해도를 상승시킨 후 2 종류의 PEG 계면활성제를 적용한 mixed 마이셀 구조를 이용하여 석출 현상을 보완함으로 인해 투명 외관을 구현하였고 안정화했다. 본 연구를 바탕으로 클렌징 워터를 제조하였고 광학 카메라 및 이미지 분석기를 활용하여 메이크업 제거 능력과 각질 개선을 통한 피부결 개선능을 확인할 수 있었다. 본 연구를 통해 물에 대한 용해도가 낮아 적용이 어려운 BHA 및 LHA의 새로운 접근 방식으로 제안하며, 새로운 화학적 필링 제품 개발연구에 도움이 될 것으로 기대된다.
more초록/요약
Part I. Based on Physical Properties Study of Tamarindus indica Seed Gum, Ethanol, Polyols, and Acid/Base Reaction Among the skin care products, mask are readily available in the market and are preferred because of their easy use. It has the advantage of being able to use it right after washing face, and you can feel the rich moisturizing efficacy with just one product. This study is based on the reactivity and acid/base reaction experiments of Tamarindus indica seed gum (TG) and ethanol, polyols, and finally relates to the development of a new gel sheet mask characterized by no support in the manufacturing. When TG and specific alcohols are mixed at a certain mixing ratio, a transparent to opaque gel is formed after a certain time by reaction with each component, so a gel sheet mask without a support could be obtained using this. Ethanol, butylene glycol, glycerin, sorbitol, dipropylene glycol, and propanediol, which are solvents commonly used in cosmetics were reviewed. It was found that TG can stably gel a large amount of alcohol in the order of call. Because it gels quickly, the formulation had to be divided into 1 and 2 formulations. In order to maximize the fun of mixing and improvement of skin brightness, it was designed to introduce an acid-base reaction carbonic acid system. Lactic acid, glycolic acid, and citric acid were selected as acids, and sodium bicarbonate was selected as salts to conduct content tests for each raw material. To confirm the efficacy, the skin brightness and moisturizing improvement were evaluated using a spectrophotometer and a skin moisture meter devices, and it was showed that the skin had an improved skin brightness and excellent moisturizing ability. Based on the gelation reaction by hydrogen bonding of TG, ethanol, and polyol through this study, it will be possible to develop various formulations. In the meantime, it is expected that this study can suggest a new direction for various cost and technical problems such as uniform size and loss due to perforation due to the limitations of the gum applied to the hydrogel. So this study helps to development of new products and the future work.
more초록/요약
Part II. Development of Transparent Cleansing Water with Salicylic Acid and Capryloyl Salicylic Acid Recently, consumer needs for skin abnormalities have increased due to the increase in fine dust from China and increased skin sensitivity due to wearing masks due to COVID-19. To solve this problem, a peeling product is used. Peeling products include physical exfoliants that remove dead skin cells on the skin surface by rubbing natural particles such as grain hulls and seed powder and microplastics such as polyethylene on the surface of the skin, and biological peeling using enzymes, alpha hydroxy It is divided into chemical peeling using acid (AHA), beta hydroxy acid (BHA), poly hydroxy acid (PHA) or lipo hydroxy acid (LHA). It is appropriately selected according to skin concerns and irritation. This study is about the development of a cleansing water product with a transparent appearance to which salicylic acid, which is BHA, and capryloyl salicylic acid, which is one of LHA, are applied during chemical peeling. Since the above two raw materials have lipophilic properties, there has been a limit to the application of transparent appearance formulations due to solubility difficult. As a study on this, the water solubility of lipophilic salicylic acid and capryloyl salicylic acid is increased using ethanol, polyol and sodium hydroxide, and then suspended using the 2 mixed micelle structure of two types of PEG surfactants. And the transparent appearance was stabilized by supplementing the precipitation phenomenon. Cleansing water applied with the technology developed through this study was prepared, and its ability to remove makeup and improve skin texture was confirmed using an optical camera and image analyzer. The solubilization technology introduced in this study is proposed as a new approach to LHA, which has been difficult to apply due to its low solubility in water, and is expected to help develop new chemical peeling products.
more목차
Part I. 1
Ⅰ. 서론 2
Ⅱ. 실험 재료 및 연구 방법 9
A. 실험 재료 9
1. 원료 9
2. 기기 9
B. 연구 방법 10
1. 실험 방법 10
2. 장기보존 안정성 시험 10
3. 효능 평가 11
4. 피부 밝기 측정 11
5. 보습력 측정 12
6. 통계 분석 12
Ⅲ. 결과 13
A. Tamarindus indica seed gum (TG) 최대 함량 실험실험 13
B. 에탄올, 폴리올 반응 확인 15
C. 산·염기 함량 실험 23
D. 겔 시트 마스크 제조 29
E. 효능 평가 31
1. 피부 밝기 평가 31
2. 피부 보습 효과 평가 34
Ⅳ. 결론 36
Ⅴ. 참고문헌 38
Part 2. 43
Ⅰ. 서론 44
Ⅱ. 실험 재료 및 연구 방법 49
A. 실험 재료 49
1. 원료 49
2. 기기 50
B. 연구 방법 51
1. 실험 방법 51
2. 장기보존 안정성 시험 51
3. 효능 평가 52
4. 피부 메이크업 세정 능력 측정 52
5. 피부결 개선 능력 측정 53
Ⅲ. 결과 54
A. 카프릴로일살리실릭애씨드 용해도 실험 54
B. 카프릴로일살리실릭애씨드 알코올 용해도 실험 59
C. 카프릴로일살리실릭애씨드 가용화제 상용성 확인 61
D. 살리실릭애씨드와 카프릴로일살리실릭애씨드가 용해된 클렌징 워터의 제조 68
E. 효능 평가 71
1. 메이크업 세정 능력 평가 71
2. 피부결 개선 평가 73
Ⅳ. 결론 75
Ⅴ. 참고문헌 77
Abstract 84
목차
Part II. Development of Transparent Cleansing Water with Salicylic Acid and Capryloyl Salicylic Acid
국 문 요 약···························································································································iii
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그림 차례·······························································································································xii
표 차례···································································································································xv
Ⅰ. 서론···································································································································· 44
Ⅱ. 실험 재료 및 연구 방법·························································································· 49
A. 실험 재료··············································································································· 49
1. 원료 ··················································································································· 49
2. 기기 ··················································································································· 50
B. 연구 방법··············································································································· 51
1. 실험 방법········································································································ 51
2. 장기보존 안정성 시험··············································································· 51
3. 효능 평가········································································································ 52
4. 피부 메이크업 세정 능력 측정····························································· 52
5. 피부결 개선 능력 측정············································································· 53
Ⅲ. 결과································································································································· 54
A. 카프릴로일살리실릭애씨드 용해도 실험 ················································· 54
B. 카프릴로일살리실릭애씨드 알코올 용해도 실험·································· 59
C. 카프릴로일살리실릭애씨드 가용화제 상용성 확인························· 61
D. 살리실릭애씨드와 카프릴로일살리실릭애씨드가 용해된 클렌징 워
터의 제조 ···················································································································· 68
E. 효능 평가··············································································································· 71
1. 메이크업 세정 능력 평가········································································ 71
2. 피부결 개선 평가························································································ 73
Ⅳ. 결론································································································································· 75
Ⅴ. 참고문헌························································································································· 77
Abstract··································································································································· 84
