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Research on the Synthesis of Polyhydric Fatty Alcohol Polyesters and Its Application for Cosmetics

초록/요약

Safe, green, and mild, yet having a good efficacy are the popular keywords in cosmetic products recently. In order to meet the market demand, this research was conducted to develop environment-friendly raw materials that have multi-functionality for cosmetic products. Natural sources such as castor oil, hydrogenated castor oil, linoleic acid, glycerol and lauric acid were used in this study. Castor oil was reacted with linoleic dimer acid under acid catalysis to synthesize castor oil dimer dilinoleate (CODDO). Hydrogenated castor oil was reacted to synthesize hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate (HCODDO). Castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil both were reacted to synthesize castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate (CHCODDO). Polyglycerol-10 laurate was used to improve the hydrophilicity and transparency of developed materials. RS-1 (CODDO and polyglycerol-10 laurate) and RS-2 (CHCODDO and polyglycerol-10 laurate) were applied in shampoo formulations. RS-3 (HCODDO and polyglycerol-10 laurate) was applied in skin care formulations. The test showed that RS-1 and RS-2 have a good conditioning effect for the hair in comparison with silicone. In skin care, it was confirmed that RS-3 has superior moisturizing properties, pigment dispersion ability, and excellent glossiness in comparison with the raw materials that are usually used. We concluded that these developed materials are promising as new natural resources for cosmetic products.

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목차

Abstract i
Index ii
List of Figures vi
List of Tables ix
Introduction 1
Experiment Methods 13
A. Reagents 13
i. Synthetic and analytical raw materials 13
ii. Raw materials for property evaluation 14
B. Instruments 14
i. Analysis of composites 14
ii. Apparatus for property evaluation 15
C. Synthesis of polyhydric polyester 16
i. Synthesis of castor oil dimer dilinoleate (CODDO) 16
ii. Synthesis of hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate (HCODDO) 19
iii. Synthesis of castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate (CHCODDO) 20
iv. Synthesis of polyglycerol-10 21
v. Synthesis of polyglycerol-10 laurate 23
vi. Preparation of a mixture of synthetic materials 23
D. Property evaluation 24
i. Hair care 25
a. Formulation and procedure of sulfate shampoo 25
b. Formulation and procedure of coco betaine shampoo 27
c. Combing force analysis 29
d. Dyeing test 29
e. Recovery of damaged hair 29
f. Combing resistance 30
ii. Skin care 30
a. Body cleanser 31
a.i. Moisturizing properties 33
a.ii. Long lasting 33
b. Sleeping mask cream 34
b.i. Moisturizing properties 36
b.ii. Synergy effect of moisturizing 36
c. Pigment dispersing effects 36
d. Glossiness effects 37
Results 40
A. Synthesis and analysis of castor oil dimer dilinoleate 40
B. Synthesis and analysis of hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate 47
C. Synthesis and analysis of the mixture of hydrogenated castor oil and castor oil dimer dilinoleate 54
D. Synthesis and analysis of polyglycerol-10 laurate 62
i. Synthesis and analysis of polyglycerol-10 62
ii. Synthesis and analysis of polyglycerol-10 laurate 68
E. Development of mixture materials (developed synthetic material polyglycerol-10 laurate 72
F. Results of physical property evaluation 72
i. Hair care 72
a. Combing force analysis 72
b. Dyeing test 76
c. Recovery of damaged hair 78
d. Combing resistance 81
e. Overall result 82
ii. Skin care 83
a. Body cleanser 83
a.i. Moisturizing properties 83
a.ii. Long lasting 83
b. Sleeping mask cream 87
b.i. Moisturizing properties 87
b.ii. Synergy effect of moisturizing 87
iii. Pigment dispersion ability 90
iv. Glossiness effects in lip gloss 93
Discussions 95
A. Synthesis and analysis of castor oil dimer dilinoleate 95
B. Synthesis and analysis of hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate 98
C. Synthesis and analysis of hydrogenated castor oil & castor oil dimer dilinoleate 99
D. Synthesis and analysis of polyglycerol-10 laurate 101
i. Synthesis and analysis of polyglycerol-10 101
ii. Synthesis and analysis of polyglycerol-10 laurate 103
E. Manufacture of mixed material of synthetic material and polyglycerol-10 laurate 104
F. Results of physical property evaluation 105
i. Hair care 105
a. Combing force analysis 106
b. Dyeing test 107
c. Recovery of damaged hair 109
d. Combing resistance 109
e. Overall result 110
ii. Skin care 110
a. Body cleanser 111
a.i. Moisturizing effect 112
a.ii. Long lasting 112
b. Sleeping mask cream 113
b.i. Moisturizing properties 113
b.ii. Synergy effect of moisturizing 114
iii. Pigment dispersion ability 114
iv. Glossiness effects in lip gloss 115
Conclusion 116
References 120

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